SUMMER TRAVELS – 2008: KANSAS

SEPTEMBER in KANSAS

Leaving Omaha, we drove west on I-80, turning south at exit #257 onto State Highway #183, which continues into Kansas.  At Greenburg, we turned onto Highway #54 to Liberal, Kansas, and then on into Oklahoma.  Driving through Kansas brought back a lot of memories of former trips throughout this interesting state:

POST ROCK COUNTRY:

A few years ago, we followed some of these same roads. North central Kansas countryside consists of rolling hills, frequently broken by ledges of limestone, and, miles and miles of unique, picturesque stone fence posts!    Now, on our present trip, as we neared the city of Hays, we once again drove through an area where this type of limestone had been used extensively in fence posts and buildings.

In a region of few trees, early settlers solved their fencing and building material problems by quarrying the local limestone.  The stone used was quarried from a rock layer found near the surface.  This limestone is rather uniform in thickness, 8 to 9 inches.  When first quarried, it is soft enough to be sawed, drilled, or shaped with hand tools.  However, after prolonged exposure to air, it hardens and becomes very weather resistant and durable. Stone posts are usually from 5 to 6 feet in length and weigh between 350 and 400 pounds each

This fascinating  “post rock” area in north central Kansas runs roughly between Junction City and Hays, Kansas, approximately 30 miles north and 30 miles south of  I-70.  The width of the area is about 100 miles.  A “Barbed Wire and Post Rock Museum” is located 25 miles south of Hayes, on Highway #183 on the far southern edge of the town of La Crosse, Kansas.

As well as fence posts, many interesting old buildings built from this stone can still be seen throughout this area…schoolhouses, churches, barns, and homes.

JUNCTION CITY:

On that earlier trip to Kansas, we spent several weeks near Junction City, waiting for a new travel trailer to be built.  Junction City is located on I-70 in northeastern Kansas between Topeka and Abilene.  In 1859 Junction City was incorporated as a city, and in 1861 Kansas entered the Union as a free state.

There were many interesting old buildings in this historic town, and most of them were built out of “post rock” limestone-such as this old stone school house.

LAKE MILFORD:

Situated just northwest of Junction City, on K-57, this is Kansas’ largest lake, and is known as the Fishing Capitol of Kansas.  While in the area, we stayed in campgrounds on Lake Milford.  First, in a Corp of Engineer operated park called Farnum Creek.  Later, we moved to Milford State Park, where there were four individual campgrounds on 1,084 acres. It is a lovely area, with many roads to hike.  Being September, the weather was gorgeous, and I virtually walked every road and trail in the park!  Scenery was lovely, with lots of trees, in autumn colors, birds, deer, and wild turkeys.

ABILENE, KANSAS:

While here, we visited the town of Abilene, which was founded as a stagecoach stop with a population of about 300 in 1857.   As the railroad pushed westward, Abilene was discovered by cattle men during the days of the large cattle drives. Almost overnight it grew into a cattle boom town with a population of 3,000.

From 1867-82, nearly three million head of cattle were driven up the Chisholm Trail from Texas to Abilene.  From here they were shipped via railroad to eastern markets.

Driving through the town, once again we admired  many lovely old limestone buildings! (This historic stone building, built in 1882 as the First Presbyterian Church, is now an art center.)

“OLD ABILENE TOWN”:

Of course we had to visit “Old Abilene”. Most of the buildings are replicas, although several of them, including all of the log structures and the school house are originals.  Built in the late 1800’s, not far from here, they were all moved and rebuilt on their present site.

One of the latest additions is a Western Museum.  Formerly the old Rock Island depot built in 1887; the depot was moved from its original site just across the tracks.  There was also a souvenir and gift shop, newspaper office, photo shop and restaurant.  It was a lovely autumn day, so browsing around was enjoyable

DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER LIBRARY:

We also visited this huge Complex.  Included in the Complex are the library, museum, family home, visitors’ center, and “Place of Meditation”.

The library houses historical documents relating to General Eisenhower’s careers as a soldier, educator, and 34th President of the United States. Across from the library is the museum, with exhibits related to the life of General Eisenhower and events of his times.   The home was occupied by the Eisenhower family from 1898 until 1946.  And, the Place of Meditation is the final resting place of Dwight David Eisenhower, his wife, Mamie Doud Eisenhower, and their first-born son, David.

FORT RILEY, KANSAS:

Located a few miles northeast of Junction City, Fort Riley was another stop on that trip through Kansas.  Both Rodger and I were interested in visiting this former fort, now an army training camp, as we each had a brother who completed their army training at Fort Riley.

As the frontier advanced westward in the early 1850’s, a fort to protect travelers was needed.  Camp Center, (now called Fort Riley) was established in 1853, and was first under the leadership of Lt. George Custer.  During the next three decades, soldiers used Fort Riley as a staging area to protect the expanding frontier.

In 1892 Fort Riley became the center for cavalry tactics and training.  The U.S. Calvary Museum at Fort Riley relates the history of the mounted soldier from the Revolutionary War to World War II.  Fort Riley has also served as a training center during all of the major wars of the 20th century. Today Fort Riley is home to the Army’s Ist Infantry Division, and the Ist Armored Division.

Driving around the grounds we enjoyed seeing the many historic buildings, (most which were built of post rock) including Lt George Custer’s home, one of the original buildings.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN:

Our new 5th wheel travel trailer was finally finished, so after “moving in” we hit the road.  And, as on that trip, now once again we approached southern Kansas, flatter farm land and the fields of milo.

On our first trip through Kansas I was not familiar with this strange crop!  The leaves are similar to corn, but the plant is shorter, like sorghum.  And, they have a large colorful “head” of seeds.  I soon learned, that milo comes in a variety of colors, from pale yellow to deep rust.  It is a feed grain and is also used in the production of ethanol!

BENSON, ARIZONA:

Leaving Kansas and our memories behind, there were no more stops, and we arrived at our home base in Benson on September 8th.  The summer monsoons poured a lot of rain over the area, and it was amazing to see the desert so green!   I will be busy “catching up” for some time, so my next post may not appear for awhile.   Let me hear from you!

(click pictures to enlarge)