The Old Stone Church along Firesteel Creek, SD

Standing Rock Sioux Indian Reservation
West of Mobridge, South Dakota
August, 2009

On March 13, 1996 an article appeared in a special edition of the Mobridge Tribune, entitled “Rock of Ages”. The article went on to tell about, and show photos of an old stone church located in a remote location on the Standing Rock Sioux Reservation.  I saved the article, hoping one day to visit this site.

In 2005, once again visiting the area, a map and guide to various interesting sites in this area appeared in a special summer issue of the Timber Lake Topic.  The old stone church was listed and its location shown on the map.  It was described as “Holy Spirit Chapel, an Episcopal mission church, built along Firesteel Creek, from stones quarried out of the nearby hills,” and was a “very rare piece of prairie mission architecture”.  The article also added, “Roads are not passable when wet, and it can be hard to find without a guide.” I saved the map, but the location seemed too difficult for us to actually find!

This year, (2009) I once more read the articles I had saved, and became obsessed with the idea of finally locating this church!  Several people had heard of it, but no one could tell us exactly how to find it!  Then I met Virgil Standing Cloud, an employee of the campground here on Indian Island.  He knew of the church, and gave us some more pointers how to find it.

So, one beautiful day, we set off on a drive, hoping to locate the old stone church!  First, we drove west on highway 12, later branching off on side roads. The countryside consists of rolling grasslands, and here and there we spotted cattle, and small herds of horses.

Coming across a different church, (Good Shepherd Church), we pulled off to examine it.  The building itself was not noteworthy, but we wandered around the small cemetery, and found its location and old grave stones all very picturesque.

Back on the road, we continued west for at least 15 miles, until we came to a sign in the shape of a cross indicating the “road” to Holy Spirit Chapel, (the old stone church.)  Actually, it was just a narrow dirt track leading across a pasture!  After about three miles, we turned west, and before long, spotted the church down in the valley of Firesteel Creek.   Following a steep narrow track, we finally arrived at the beautiful little building.  To finally be here gave me a profound feeling of awe that I cannot describe.

According to the Timber Lake and Area Historical Society’s website, “One of the most distinguishing elements on the church is the seven foot Niobrara cross above the front door. The cross is carved into the native stone. The Niobrara Cross….is used exclusively by the Indian Episcopal Church of the Dakotas.”  (click here to go to their website.)

Approaching the church, we found the door unlocked, so we entered to a truly impressive sight!  Ten small wooden pews with a center aisle lead to a recessed nave at the front of the church, which is framed by a large stone arch.  Within this area stands a small altar framed by a smaller stone arch. Centered over the altar is a large wooden cross.  Bouquets of colorful plastic flowers adorn the altar, and candles remain from some prior service.  A small room opened up directly off the altar area, empty now, except for some old water damaged hymnals.  Off to the side, between the pews and the recessed area, stands a small pot-bellied stove…the only source of heat for the church.  The wooden overhead beams, and stone walls and floor were of interest as well.  From all appearances, the church has not been used in quite some time.

At the back of the church, we stopped to read some old framed newspaper clippings.  Holy Spirit Church was supposedly designed by an architect from Germany, and was built in 1922.  A plaque on the wall lists it as being on the National Register of Historical Places. The church, from all appearances has not been used recently.

Outside, we wandered a short distance to the cemetery.   Here too, were signs of neglect…no new graves, and many stones and crosses were buried in the long grass.  We wondered how different it must have been when a community existed here in this valley.  In fact, on our entire drive…we saw very few home sites in the country.  Most of the residents on the reservation now live in the surrounding small towns.

Back at the campground, Virgil was happy to hear about our outing, and realizing that I was interested in local history, loaned me his copy of the book “Standing Rock Sioux”.  This book is a pictorial history of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe.  Inside the book, Virgil had left a copy of his family tree going back five generations!  This, to me was of as much interest as the book itself…and I wondered how many people I knew could trace their family tree back that far!

Visiting the old stone church was a day I will remember always!

(click on pictures to enlarge)

Mobridge, South Dakota

Blog entry August, 2009

Well, here we are in Mobridge.….one of our favorite stopping off places since we first discovered it in 1980.  We love the town itself, the surrounding area, the great walleye fishing, and of course, the campground.  To refresh your memory about Mobridge, go back to my blog post of summer, 2008 >>.

Once again, we are staying on Indian Island…on the west side of the long bridge crossing the Missouri River.   This campground is owned and operated by the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe. Situated on park like grounds, camping spaces are spacious with vast grass and tree common areas throughout the park.  Rental rates are very reasonable, (as Senior citizens we pay $8.00 a night) with electric service to every site, lots of water hydrants, and there is a dump station.  Our camp site is shaded by trees, surrounded by common area, with a view of the water. Oddly, to our advantage, other than holiday weekends, the campground is virtually empty…giving us a lot of peace and quiet in a lovely setting.

First of all, since Rodger’s 3 month psa test (for his prostate cancer) was due, we went to the local hospital/clinic/pharmacy. Test results were high, but local employees were most efficient, working with his Oncologist at the AZ Cancer Center in Tucson, so he was able to have the required Lupron injection, plus pick up a newly prescribed prescription.  It was relief to find reliable local medical care.

The last time we were in Mobridge, the water levels in the Missouri River (Actually, a reservoir here…Lake Oahe) were at an all time low, and the bays were high and dry.  This year, water levels are 30 feet higher!  So the boat ramp in a bay by the campground is open once again, but the one on the main channel (built during low water years) is flooded.  These conditions have affected location of the fish! We had a few days of good fishing …catching some nice walleye and some catfish.  People rave about walleye, but the channel catfish from these waters are excellent as well!  Since then the fish have seemed to move again, and fishing has dropped off…so we have been doing other things.

Last summer, wild turkeys roamed throughout the park, and we had enjoyed them immensely.  So, it was very disturbing, this year, as they seemed to have disappeared entirely.  Finally, after being here for three weeks…they appeared again.  Evidently they had been nesting, as when we first saw them, there were at least twenty chicks (quite large by now) with the flock!  What a joy it was to see them again!

Of course one of Rodger’s first stops in Mobridge was at Westside Meats….a butcher shop, meat market and deli.  Here, besides beef and pork, they process and sell all cuts of buffalo meat!  We have enjoyed buffalo burgers, buffalo roasts, and buffalo steaks.  A lean meat, and very delicious!

Weather has been ideal…usually in the low to mid 80’s…unlike last summer when we had tornado watches and warnings quite frequently!  Today, we are enjoying a rainy day, and a good time to catch up on computer projects.  No, we do not have internet service, and we miss that!  However, to send/receive e-mail, we merely go into town, and park in front of almost any business, where we can accomplish that easily from the truck.

On my next post, I will show you the countryside of the Standing Rock Reservation, including photos of some really “neat” places we discovered and enjoyed… PLEASE WATCH FOR THAT!!

Patos Island, Washington

Blog entry June 1, 2009

Our winter was spent in Benson, with no exciting adventures to relate.  Now, hot weather has come to the desert, so we are making plans for a summer getaway trip.  Most of our time will be spent in one of our favorite places….Mobridge, S.D. relaxing in a lovely campground and hopefully doing some serious walleye fishing!   You may read about Mobridge in my 2008 summer travel blog post .

Before we leave, I’d like to refer back to another favorite place, which I wrote about in the fifth book of the Maverick Series.…The Strait Years.   I am referring to Patos Island and its historic lighthouse.   Located in Georgia Strait, Patos is the most northern of Washington State’s San Juan Islands.

At the time of our visits to Patos Island, we were living in Port Angeles, WA and owned a 30-foot  cabin cruiser named “Maverick.”  In the book I wrote about many of the lovely places to visit on the Olympic Peninsula, and of the many adventures we experienced on our cruises among the San Juan and Canadian Gulf Islands.

In 1792, explorers Galliano and Valdez discovered and named this island “Patos”…meaning: “Island of Ducks.”  The island is 210 acres in size, and its shoreline caves were popular hideouts for smugglers.

On the western tip of this one mile long island, known as Alden Point, stands the beautiful Patos Island Lighthouse, which became operational in 1893.  Other structures once present included two dwellings, cisterns and a boat ramp.  In 1908 a 38 foot tower was added to the one remaining building.  In 2007 a non profit Keepers of the Patos Light was formed.  Along with the US Bureau of Land Management, and the Orcas Fire Department, their purpose is to preserve the beauty of the lighthouse.  In 2008 vast renovations took place on both the inside and outside of this historic structure.  Patos Island is now a Washington State Marine Park.

One of the best known light keepers on Patos Island was Edward Durgan, who, with his wife and large family, lived at the island lighthouse from 1905 to 1913.  One of the most delightful books I have ever read…Light on the Island…was written by Helene Glidden, one of the Durgan children.  It is based on her childhood adventures while living on the island during these years.

The following are quotes from my book  The Strait Years:

“As we approached the island, a spectacular lighthouse came into view on the very point (Alden Point) of the island.  We cruised into Active Cove, which lies between Patos and Little Patos Island.  There were only two mooring buoys in the cove, but fortunately both were empty so we moored to one.”

“After getting settled, we launched the dinghy and rowed to the sandy beach at the end of the cove, where there is a primitive campground.  From here we hiked a trail through some lovely woods to the lighthouse.  Nearing the lighthouse, we spotted several eagles high up in the fir trees, and some soaring overhead.  Two trees had nests with baby eagles in them!  Arriving at the lighthouse, the sweeping view looking over Boundary Passage and the Canadian Gulf Islands was awesome! Then we followed another path above the water, until we found a spot where we could scramble down to the rocky shoreline.  The tide was out, so we meandered along the sandstone ledges, examining the unusual shapes of the rocks and strange little caves created by wind and water over the years.

I couldn’t help but think what a magical fairyland it must have been for the Durgen children when they lived here!  Returning to the beach where we had left the dinghy, I found a large shell, and using that, I dug a mess of butter clams, which were the whitest butter clams we have ever found!”

“After lunch we went out in the dinghy again.  Rodger dropped me off on the sandy beach and I walked the trail to the lighthouse.  I enjoyed exploring the opposite shoreline below the lighthouse consisting of large rocks and huge driftwood, and also the wildflowers in bloom on the grassy hillsides, snapping photos as I walked.  Meanwhile, Rodger had rowed to the opening of the cove to fish. When he came to pick me from the rocky shore which we had explored earlier, he had caught five dandy rock cod!  That evening we had a great seafood meal of clams and fish!”

Evenings were always a lovely time.  We would sit in the cockpit of the Maverick, facing the opening of the cove.  The sunsets were gorgeous, turning the water to lovely hues of orange and yellow…and now and then big ships would pass by.  All was quiet except the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore, an occasional bird song, and small animals moving about on shore.  How fortunate we were!

On another visit to Patos Island:  “The wind picked up in the night, so Rodger lengthened our mooring lines so we wouldn’t be banging against the buoy all night.  In the middle of the night we heard sharp horn blasts from an old metal boat that had been anchored behind us.  His anchor had come loose  and the boat had drifted up on the rocks.  The wind was too strong to do anything at the time, but in the morning when the tide came in, Rodger went over and towed him off the rocks with the Maverick.  The boat owner said he didn’t have any money, but offered us half a can of coffee for our assistance! Of course we refused, and then he left, heading toward Point Roberts, six miles away…his engine ‘put-putting’ away, like the “Little Engine that Could!”

We visited Patos Island several times.  Since its location is so far from the other San Juan Islands, it seemed like few people stopped here, and we were always able to find an open mooring buoy.  One visit included a hike around the island which almost turned into a disaster, a story too long  to tell here, but we did enjoy many hikes on the island, and always caught fish and found clams!  All in all…each visit to Patos Island was a beautiful and exciting adventure!

Keep watching my BLOG for other adventures on land and while cruising!

Meanwhile…we’re heading for Mobridge….computer along…and any comments or questions are always welcome!