The Old Stone Church along Firesteel Creek, SD

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Standing Rock Sioux Indian Reservation
West of Mobridge, South Dakota
August, 2009

On March 13, 1996 an article appeared in a special edition of the Mobridge Tribune, entitled “Rock of Ages”. The article went on to tell about, and show photos of an old stone church located in a remote location on the Standing Rock Sioux Reservation.  I saved the article, hoping one day to visit this site.

In 2005, once again visiting the area, a map and guide to various interesting sites in this area appeared in a special summer issue of the Timber Lake Topic.  The old stone church was listed and its location shown on the map.  It was described as “Holy Spirit Chapel, an Episcopal mission church, built along Firesteel Creek, from stones quarried out of the nearby hills,” and was a “very rare piece of prairie mission architecture”.  The article also added, “Roads are not passable when wet, and it can be hard to find without a guide.” I saved the map, but the location seemed too difficult for us to actually find!

This year, (2009) I once more read the articles I had saved, and became obsessed with the idea of finally locating this church!  Several people had heard of it, but no one could tell us exactly how to find it!  Then I met Virgil Standing Cloud, an employee of the campground here on Indian Island.  He knew of the church, and gave us some more pointers how to find it.

So, one beautiful day, we set off on a drive, hoping to locate the old stone church!  First, we drove west on highway 12, later branching off on side roads. The countryside consists of rolling grasslands, and here and there we spotted cattle, and small herds of horses.

Coming across a different church, (Good Shepherd Church), we pulled off to examine it.  The building itself was not noteworthy, but we wandered around the small cemetery, and found its location and old grave stones all very picturesque.

Back on the road, we continued west for at least 15 miles, until we came to a sign in the shape of a cross indicating the “road” to Holy Spirit Chapel, (the old stone church.)  Actually, it was just a narrow dirt track leading across a pasture!  After about three miles, we turned west, and before long, spotted the church down in the valley of Firesteel Creek.   Following a steep narrow track, we finally arrived at the beautiful little building.  To finally be here gave me a profound feeling of awe that I cannot describe.

According to the Timber Lake and Area Historical Society’s website, “One of the most distinguishing elements on the church is the seven foot Niobrara cross above the front door. The cross is carved into the native stone. The Niobrara Cross….is used exclusively by the Indian Episcopal Church of the Dakotas.”  (click here to go to their website.)

Approaching the church, we found the door unlocked, so we entered to a truly impressive sight!  Ten small wooden pews with a center aisle lead to a recessed nave at the front of the church, which is framed by a large stone arch.  Within this area stands a small altar framed by a smaller stone arch. Centered over the altar is a large wooden cross.  Bouquets of colorful plastic flowers adorn the altar, and candles remain from some prior service.  A small room opened up directly off the altar area, empty now, except for some old water damaged hymnals.  Off to the side, between the pews and the recessed area, stands a small pot-bellied stove…the only source of heat for the church.  The wooden overhead beams, and stone walls and floor were of interest as well.  From all appearances, the church has not been used in quite some time.

At the back of the church, we stopped to read some old framed newspaper clippings.  Holy Spirit Church was supposedly designed by an architect from Germany, and was built in 1922.  A plaque on the wall lists it as being on the National Register of Historical Places. The church, from all appearances has not been used recently.

Outside, we wandered a short distance to the cemetery.   Here too, were signs of neglect…no new graves, and many stones and crosses were buried in the long grass.  We wondered how different it must have been when a community existed here in this valley.  In fact, on our entire drive…we saw very few home sites in the country.  Most of the residents on the reservation now live in the surrounding small towns.

Back at the campground, Virgil was happy to hear about our outing, and realizing that I was interested in local history, loaned me his copy of the book “Standing Rock Sioux”.  This book is a pictorial history of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe.  Inside the book, Virgil had left a copy of his family tree going back five generations!  This, to me was of as much interest as the book itself…and I wondered how many people I knew could trace their family tree back that far!

Visiting the old stone church was a day I will remember always!

(click on pictures to enlarge)

Spring Flowers!

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4/22/08 Benson, AZ (I have moved this post from 2008 to share with you, once again, the wonders of spring!)

Spring has come to the desert, and warm, sunny 80+ degree days prevail. Due to extremely low winter rainfall, the cactus and wildflowers are slow to appear here in our area.

However, this time of year brings back memories of many lovely wildflower displays we have witnessed and filmed during our travels. I would like to share a few of these photos with you. Some I know the names of, others I do not.

Arizona Cactus and Wildflowers

Brittle-bush  Hedgehog cactus

 

Arizona Cactus Arizona Cactus

Arizona Cactus Arizona Cactus

California Wildflowers

Ajo lily

Verbena, Borrego Springs, CA

South Texas Wildflowers

Texas roadside in the spring

Texas flower Texas flower

Texas bluebonnet

Hybiscus, Texas

Texas tulip tree

Florida Wildflowers

Florida crown-of-thorns

Florida flower

Washington Wildflowers

Indian paint brush, Hurricane Ridge

Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park, Washington

Mountain heather on Hurricane Ridge

Flowers on Hurricane Ridge

Flowers on Hurricane Ridge

Hurricane Ridge

Wildflower, Patos Island

Patos Island, Washington

(Click on pictures to enlarge)

I would enjoy some feedback on my blog, website, and/or my books.  Please contact me  at:   elaineseavey@escapees.com Autographed books may also  be ordered via e-mail…free shipping.

Recalling Memories: KARLUKWEES

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September, 2010

RECALLING MEMORIES FROM …. THE STRAIT YEARS:

Now living in Tucson, I am having a difficult time getting used to the very hot summer!  Especially compared to the lovely summer weather we experienced in Port Angeles, Washington, and my mind is filled with memories of the twenty summers we spent in that beautiful area.

In my fifth and last book, The Strait Years, I wrote about our life during those years.  Our home overlooked the Strait of Juan de Fuca, so the ship and boat activity was a constant source of interest. The Olympic Peninsula had many beautiful places to explore, and crabbing, digging clams, and fishing provided endless enjoyable activities.  However, my fondest memories are of the cruises we took among the islands in US and Canadian waters in our 30 foot cabin cruiser named the Maverick.

A careful list was prepared prior to each cruise, as certain supplies could be difficult to find in small seaside towns or marina stores.  Sometimes the boat would be a loaded and ready for the trip, sometimes for days, as we waited for calm water or the fog to lift. This was imperative, as our first day involved crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca ….25 miles of big water.  Once across, the water was usually calmer in and around the various islands.

I’d like to share my memories of one the most interesting places we visited.   It took us 16 days to reach this site.  Each and every day along the way had its own story…the things we saw as we cruised along, and interesting moorages or anchorages. For those stories, you will have to read my book, The Strait Years.

KARLUKWEES:

Karlukwees is the site of an ancient, now abandoned Indian village on Turnour Island, in Canadian waters.  A red mark on this map shows the island and its distance from Port Angeles.  We learned of this village from the book Northwest Boat Travel….A helpful item to carry when cruising in Northwest waters.

Approaching the village, we spotted several dilapidated buildings, and a rickety, yet usable dock, with a ramp to shore, so we pulled in and moored to the dock.  We had caught six salmon that morning. Fortunately, I had brought along our pressure cooker, a gas burner, with portable propane, cans and a can sealer. So, while Rodger cleaned the fish and got the burner set up on the dock, I cut up the fish, filled and sealed 25 cans, lit the gas burner, and loaded the pressure cooker.

Before long a couple with their young son pulled up in a sailboat.  They had caught several salmon.  Too late to add to the pressure cooker, Rodger suggested smoking them, saying we could make a smoker!  They had never smoked fish, and probably thought he was crazy…at the moment I thought he was too!

Scouting about on shore, they found the rusty outside of an old furnace, some metal sheeting, and dead cherry wood for smoking.  Since I had ingredients along, I showed them how to sprinkle canning salt and dark brown sugar over the clean fish fillets, and then lay them out in a large plastic pan where they “marinated” over night.

In the morning, the guys dug a hole in the sand for the fire, set the furnace casing over that, and made crude shelves out of the metal.  The fish was removed from the pan to the shelves, the cherry wood fire was lit, and the smoking process began. By about 4:00 PM the fish were ready, and had turned out “Perfect.”  Our new friends were very impressed!  The next day our company left, and we were once again alone.

Crabbing here was terrific, with lots of giant sized Dungeness crabs!  On shore we picked blackberries and sweet plums.  Happy to have an oven, I made blackberry cobbler and crab quiche.  Recipe for crab quiche follows:

Butter an 8 x 10 pan.  Place cooked crab meat, diced onions and celery, grated cheese, and desired seasonings in the pan.  Pour over all a mixture of 2 eggs, 2 cups of milk (I used powdered milk) and ½ cup of Bisquick.  Bake at 350 for about 30 minutes or until golden brown.   Good either hot or cold!!!

One day a visitor came by, who had lived here as a boy.  He said they obtained fresh water by building a dam on the hillside. And, that the shore was once lined with totem poles, which have fallen over the years, and are now covered over by huge blackberry brambles. He also said that ancient blue trade beads were sometimes found on the beach at low tide!  The village was gradually abandoned as people began to seek employment and a more modern way of life.

Hoping to find an ancient trade bead, I spent endless hours searching the beach. My search was rewarded one evening when I found not one, but two ancient blue trade beads! A huge raven had hovered above me during my search, “talking”…as ravens do,…Or, was it a Spirit from the past guiding me to these treasures of old???

While here, we explored the old buildings on shore, and meandered along the midden beach. I sketched scenes of the old buildings, the dock, and surrounding scenery, all the while spinning tales in my mind of how it “might have been” in the old days when Karlukwees was an active village.  They were wonderful, unforgettable days!

We had left Port Angeles on August 4th, and returned on September 2nd feeling much richer for our experiences!

Killer Whale Petroglyph

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March, 2010
Tucson, Arizona

My last blog post was in August, 2009, from Mobridge, South Dakota.  After a restful summer in that area, we headed for Omaha, Nebraska to spend time with daughter Pamela and her family. We parked our RV at Two Rivers State Park west of Omaha.  (An earlier post, with photos, describes this lovely area.)  Pam and Richard recently purchased a new home on the west side of Omaha, so time was divided between their lovely new place and our camping site in the park.

We returned to Benson in September.  For some time we have been considering a move to Tucson…to be closer to medical specialists, better shopping, and to have more space, (since we have lived in an RV almost full time for over 30 years!)  We ended up purchasing an “almost new” home in a lovely retirement age mobile home park just southeast of the Tucson city limits.

Shopping for furniture and moving our personal possessions has kept us busy!  It’s been fun filling the new bookshelves with our treasured books, hanging favorite photos and art work on the walls, etc.  And. finally, we had an opportunity to have a rubbing I made of a petroglyph of a killer whale framed, and it is now hanging over the couch in our new living room.  We consider it one of our greatest treasures!

We discovered this petroglyph while living in the Pacific Northwest, on one of our boating excursions in Canadian waters.  It is located on the rocky shoreline of Degnan Bay a short distance from the Government Wharf on Gabriola Island. This petroglyph of a killer whale can only be seen at low tide.  Deeply etched into the rock, it is very well preserved.  The rubbing was done on unbleached muslin, using a black crayon.

I have always had a deep interest in all historic sites.  Having a Master’s Degree in Art has helped me to respect these sites even more.  So, while doing this rubbing, extreme care was given not to disturb the quality of the petroglyph itself.  This is the only rubbing I have done.  Other petroglyphs elsewhere and on Gabriola Island were only photographed….without touching the rocks themselves or disturbing the surrounding area.  Hopefully, others will recognize the value of these ancient treasure sites, and will help to preserve them for all to study and enjoy.

An earlier post to my Blog describes this site, and another well known petroglyph site on Gabriola Island.  You will find the complete story of our adventures on Gabriola Island and how we found these petroglyphs, with more photos, in the 5th and final book of the MAVERICK SERIES, “The Strait Years”.  In an earlier book, “Southwest Adventures”, I have shared other petroglyphs and ancient Indian sites with stories and photos throughout the southwestern states.

Meanwhile, while the rest of the country suffers from extreme cold weather and heavy snowfalls, we are enjoying a mild winter in Tucson.  Today it was 73 degrees, and night time temperatures average in the 40’s.   There have been no trips this winter.  Moving has taken up all our time!

(Click pictures to enlarge and links to view)

e-mail:  Elaine@elaineseavey.com                      Web site:   www.elaineseavey.com

Mobridge, South Dakota

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Blog entry August, 2009

Well, here we are in Mobridge.….one of our favorite stopping off places since we first discovered it in 1980.  We love the town itself, the surrounding area, the great walleye fishing, and of course, the campground.  To refresh your memory about Mobridge, go back to my blog post of summer, 2008 >>.

Once again, we are staying on Indian Island…on the west side of the long bridge crossing the Missouri River.   This campground is owned and operated by the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe. Situated on park like grounds, camping spaces are spacious with vast grass and tree common areas throughout the park.  Rental rates are very reasonable, (as Senior citizens we pay $8.00 a night) with electric service to every site, lots of water hydrants, and there is a dump station.  Our camp site is shaded by trees, surrounded by common area, with a view of the water. Oddly, to our advantage, other than holiday weekends, the campground is virtually empty…giving us a lot of peace and quiet in a lovely setting.

First of all, since Rodger’s 3 month psa test (for his prostate cancer) was due, we went to the local hospital/clinic/pharmacy. Test results were high, but local employees were most efficient, working with his Oncologist at the AZ Cancer Center in Tucson, so he was able to have the required Lupron injection, plus pick up a newly prescribed prescription.  It was relief to find reliable local medical care.

The last time we were in Mobridge, the water levels in the Missouri River (Actually, a reservoir here…Lake Oahe) were at an all time low, and the bays were high and dry.  This year, water levels are 30 feet higher!  So the boat ramp in a bay by the campground is open once again, but the one on the main channel (built during low water years) is flooded.  These conditions have affected location of the fish! We had a few days of good fishing …catching some nice walleye and some catfish.  People rave about walleye, but the channel catfish from these waters are excellent as well!  Since then the fish have seemed to move again, and fishing has dropped off…so we have been doing other things.

Last summer, wild turkeys roamed throughout the park, and we had enjoyed them immensely.  So, it was very disturbing, this year, as they seemed to have disappeared entirely.  Finally, after being here for three weeks…they appeared again.  Evidently they had been nesting, as when we first saw them, there were at least twenty chicks (quite large by now) with the flock!  What a joy it was to see them again!

Of course one of Rodger’s first stops in Mobridge was at Westside Meats….a butcher shop, meat market and deli.  Here, besides beef and pork, they process and sell all cuts of buffalo meat!  We have enjoyed buffalo burgers, buffalo roasts, and buffalo steaks.  A lean meat, and very delicious!

Weather has been ideal…usually in the low to mid 80’s…unlike last summer when we had tornado watches and warnings quite frequently!  Today, we are enjoying a rainy day, and a good time to catch up on computer projects.  No, we do not have internet service, and we miss that!  However, to send/receive e-mail, we merely go into town, and park in front of almost any business, where we can accomplish that easily from the truck.

On my next post, I will show you the countryside of the Standing Rock Reservation, including photos of some really “neat” places we discovered and enjoyed… PLEASE WATCH FOR THAT!!

Patos Island, Washington

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Blog entry June 1, 2009

Our winter was spent in Benson, with no exciting adventures to relate.  Now, hot weather has come to the desert, so we are making plans for a summer getaway trip.  Most of our time will be spent in one of our favorite places….Mobridge, S.D. relaxing in a lovely campground and hopefully doing some serious walleye fishing!   You may read about Mobridge in my 2008 summer travel blog post .

Before we leave, I’d like to refer back to another favorite place, which I wrote about in the fifth book of the Maverick Series.…The Strait Years.   I am referring to Patos Island and its historic lighthouse.   Located in Georgia Strait, Patos is the most northern of Washington State’s San Juan Islands.

At the time of our visits to Patos Island, we were living in Port Angeles, WA and owned a 30-foot  cabin cruiser named “Maverick.”  In the book I wrote about many of the lovely places to visit on the Olympic Peninsula, and of the many adventures we experienced on our cruises among the San Juan and Canadian Gulf Islands.

In 1792, explorers Galliano and Valdez discovered and named this island “Patos”…meaning: “Island of Ducks.”  The island is 210 acres in size, and its shoreline caves were popular hideouts for smugglers.

On the western tip of this one mile long island, known as Alden Point, stands the beautiful Patos Island Lighthouse, which became operational in 1893.  Other structures once present included two dwellings, cisterns and a boat ramp.  In 1908 a 38 foot tower was added to the one remaining building.  In 2007 a non profit Keepers of the Patos Light was formed.  Along with the US Bureau of Land Management, and the Orcas Fire Department, their purpose is to preserve the beauty of the lighthouse.  In 2008 vast renovations took place on both the inside and outside of this historic structure.  Patos Island is now a Washington State Marine Park.

One of the best known light keepers on Patos Island was Edward Durgan, who, with his wife and large family, lived at the island lighthouse from 1905 to 1913.  One of the most delightful books I have ever read…Light on the Island…was written by Helene Glidden, one of the Durgan children.  It is based on her childhood adventures while living on the island during these years.

The following are quotes from my book  The Strait Years:

“As we approached the island, a spectacular lighthouse came into view on the very point (Alden Point) of the island.  We cruised into Active Cove, which lies between Patos and Little Patos Island.  There were only two mooring buoys in the cove, but fortunately both were empty so we moored to one.”

“After getting settled, we launched the dinghy and rowed to the sandy beach at the end of the cove, where there is a primitive campground.  From here we hiked a trail through some lovely woods to the lighthouse.  Nearing the lighthouse, we spotted several eagles high up in the fir trees, and some soaring overhead.  Two trees had nests with baby eagles in them!  Arriving at the lighthouse, the sweeping view looking over Boundary Passage and the Canadian Gulf Islands was awesome! Then we followed another path above the water, until we found a spot where we could scramble down to the rocky shoreline.  The tide was out, so we meandered along the sandstone ledges, examining the unusual shapes of the rocks and strange little caves created by wind and water over the years.

I couldn’t help but think what a magical fairyland it must have been for the Durgen children when they lived here!  Returning to the beach where we had left the dinghy, I found a large shell, and using that, I dug a mess of butter clams, which were the whitest butter clams we have ever found!”

“After lunch we went out in the dinghy again.  Rodger dropped me off on the sandy beach and I walked the trail to the lighthouse.  I enjoyed exploring the opposite shoreline below the lighthouse consisting of large rocks and huge driftwood, and also the wildflowers in bloom on the grassy hillsides, snapping photos as I walked.  Meanwhile, Rodger had rowed to the opening of the cove to fish. When he came to pick me from the rocky shore which we had explored earlier, he had caught five dandy rock cod!  That evening we had a great seafood meal of clams and fish!”

Evenings were always a lovely time.  We would sit in the cockpit of the Maverick, facing the opening of the cove.  The sunsets were gorgeous, turning the water to lovely hues of orange and yellow…and now and then big ships would pass by.  All was quiet except the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore, an occasional bird song, and small animals moving about on shore.  How fortunate we were!

On another visit to Patos Island:  “The wind picked up in the night, so Rodger lengthened our mooring lines so we wouldn’t be banging against the buoy all night.  In the middle of the night we heard sharp horn blasts from an old metal boat that had been anchored behind us.  His anchor had come loose  and the boat had drifted up on the rocks.  The wind was too strong to do anything at the time, but in the morning when the tide came in, Rodger went over and towed him off the rocks with the Maverick.  The boat owner said he didn’t have any money, but offered us half a can of coffee for our assistance! Of course we refused, and then he left, heading toward Point Roberts, six miles away…his engine ‘put-putting’ away, like the “Little Engine that Could!”

We visited Patos Island several times.  Since its location is so far from the other San Juan Islands, it seemed like few people stopped here, and we were always able to find an open mooring buoy.  One visit included a hike around the island which almost turned into a disaster, a story too long  to tell here, but we did enjoy many hikes on the island, and always caught fish and found clams!  All in all…each visit to Patos Island was a beautiful and exciting adventure!

Keep watching my BLOG for other adventures on land and while cruising!

Meanwhile…we’re heading for Mobridge….computer along…and any comments or questions are always welcome!

A fond farewell to my mountain bike

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January 9, 2009

Well here it is, 2009, and my last post was way back in September, 2008, when we returned to Benson after our summer trip.  Only one noteworthy event occurred in October…to me, at least.  Our Park held an autumn yard sale during which I sold my mountain bike!  Realizing various health problems have made riding bike rather hazardous for me, it was still a difficult decision to make.  In private, I shed a few tears…as it was like losing a dear friend!  More than that, it was giving up an era in our lives, and an activity Rodger and I enjoyed immensely for many years.

During our travels, our bikes traveled with us on a rack on the back of our travel trailer, and everywhere we went, we found new and interesting places to ride:  Ranch roads and old cattle trails in British Columbia, side roads in Death Valley, many miles of sandy trails in Borrego Springs National Park, California, and along the banks of canals near Niland, California.

Along the Arizona/Mexican border we camped in the Buenos Aires Wildlife refuge near Sasabe, AZ.  Here, we rode virtually every road in the refuge.  We have also ridden our bikes extensively around the desert in Yuma, and Quartzsite, AZ.  We biked along old railroad grade trails and logging roads in Minnesota, and in various recreational areas throughout the Midwest.

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In the Rio Grande Valley of Texas, we rode endless miles of roadway along irrigation canals.  Our bikes also  traveled with us to Mexico where we rode to quaint old villages, and also to a remote beach where “Catch 22’ was filmed.

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In my fifth and final book, The Strait Years, I wrote about riding our bikes on the Olympic Peninsula, where we lived at the time, and taking our bikes with us on boat trips, then going for rides along country lanes in the San Juan Islands, and to quaint seaside harbor towns.

The third book of the Maverick Series, Southwest Adventures, includes more stories about our mountain biking adventures.  Our favorite excursions were around Quartzsite, Arizona.  Quartzsite is a small desert town, surrounded by mountains, with many miles of rocky old tracks and trails in the area.  These rugged trails meandered up, down, and around, through the ever changing and beautiful mountainous desert countryside.

Some of the “sites and sights” we came across on our desert bike outings in the southwest included:  Ancient Indian camps with deep mortars in the surrounding rocks, where seeds were ground into flour, hidden springs,  petroglyph and pictograph sites, and ancient intaglios created on the desert floor.  We also located several strange rock alignments, and odd old structures that seemed to have no explanations, which I referred to simply as “mysteries of the desert“.

From days when prospectors roamed the hills looking for gold or silver, we came across crumbling rock house ruins, old campsites with makeshift fireplaces still intact, abandoned mine sites, ghost towns and cemeteries.  From still more recent times, we discovered old training campsites from WWII.  Rock outlines designated where the camp sites had been, and tracks of huge tanks are still visible, wandering across the desert floor.

We frequently walked our bikes across or through huge deep washes, around washed out trails, and over rugged, rocky areas.  Often we would stop, park our bikes and hike.  This allowed us to discover remote sites we never could have reached with any other mode of transportation, including 4-wheel drive vehicles.

We often saw wildlife: Deer, mountain sheep, coyotes, kit fox, jackrabbits, and once, a badger.  Smaller critters included horned toads, lizards of all sizes, and iguana.  On one ride we encountered a rattlesnake!  Wide varieties of birds were also seen and heard. And, it was a joy when we could identify yet another new species.

Every bike ride also took us through gorgeous desert scenery.  Surrounded by high mountains, we were in awe of the many unusual rock formations, and hiked through awesome, deep sided canyons. We enjoyed the various species of cacti (especially lovely when in bloom) and other interesting desert trees and plants in this beautiful “living desert”.  Now, although our mountain biking and hiking days appear to be at an end, we can still go back and relive those days through my books, and the hundreds of photographs we took!

If you enjoy mountain biking, historical sites, the outdoors, or traveling off the beaten path in general, I’m certain you would enjoy Southwest Adventures, and ALL of the other books in the Maverick Series!

My Web site www.ElaineSeavey.com features each of my books individually.  To see more photos of the various places we have visited, check on the “photo gallery” link for each book.  My ongoing BLOG is also filled with photos of more current travels and events.

For more information or questions, you can contact me via e-mail:
ElaineSeavey@escapees.com
To order personally autographed books, shipped free, write to me at:
Elaine Seavey, 600 East Saguaro Drive – #132, Benson, AZ   85602

Hope to hear from you!
Elaine Seavey

(click on pictures to enlarge)

SUMMER TRAVELS – 2008: KANSAS

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SEPTEMBER in KANSAS

Leaving Omaha, we drove west on I-80, turning south at exit #257 onto State Highway #183, which continues into Kansas.  At Greenburg, we turned onto Highway #54 to Liberal, Kansas, and then on into Oklahoma.  Driving through Kansas brought back a lot of memories of former trips throughout this interesting state:

POST ROCK COUNTRY:

A few years ago, we followed some of these same roads. North central Kansas countryside consists of rolling hills, frequently broken by ledges of limestone, and, miles and miles of unique, picturesque stone fence posts!    Now, on our present trip, as we neared the city of Hays, we once again drove through an area where this type of limestone had been used extensively in fence posts and buildings.

In a region of few trees, early settlers solved their fencing and building material problems by quarrying the local limestone.  The stone used was quarried from a rock layer found near the surface.  This limestone is rather uniform in thickness, 8 to 9 inches.  When first quarried, it is soft enough to be sawed, drilled, or shaped with hand tools.  However, after prolonged exposure to air, it hardens and becomes very weather resistant and durable. Stone posts are usually from 5 to 6 feet in length and weigh between 350 and 400 pounds each

This fascinating  “post rock” area in north central Kansas runs roughly between Junction City and Hays, Kansas, approximately 30 miles north and 30 miles south of  I-70.  The width of the area is about 100 miles.  A “Barbed Wire and Post Rock Museum” is located 25 miles south of Hayes, on Highway #183 on the far southern edge of the town of La Crosse, Kansas.

As well as fence posts, many interesting old buildings built from this stone can still be seen throughout this area…schoolhouses, churches, barns, and homes.

JUNCTION CITY:

On that earlier trip to Kansas, we spent several weeks near Junction City, waiting for a new travel trailer to be built.  Junction City is located on I-70 in northeastern Kansas between Topeka and Abilene.  In 1859 Junction City was incorporated as a city, and in 1861 Kansas entered the Union as a free state.

There were many interesting old buildings in this historic town, and most of them were built out of “post rock” limestone-such as this old stone school house.

LAKE MILFORD:

Situated just northwest of Junction City, on K-57, this is Kansas’ largest lake, and is known as the Fishing Capitol of Kansas.  While in the area, we stayed in campgrounds on Lake Milford.  First, in a Corp of Engineer operated park called Farnum Creek.  Later, we moved to Milford State Park, where there were four individual campgrounds on 1,084 acres. It is a lovely area, with many roads to hike.  Being September, the weather was gorgeous, and I virtually walked every road and trail in the park!  Scenery was lovely, with lots of trees, in autumn colors, birds, deer, and wild turkeys.

ABILENE, KANSAS:

While here, we visited the town of Abilene, which was founded as a stagecoach stop with a population of about 300 in 1857.   As the railroad pushed westward, Abilene was discovered by cattle men during the days of the large cattle drives. Almost overnight it grew into a cattle boom town with a population of 3,000.

From 1867-82, nearly three million head of cattle were driven up the Chisholm Trail from Texas to Abilene.  From here they were shipped via railroad to eastern markets.

Driving through the town, once again we admired  many lovely old limestone buildings! (This historic stone building, built in 1882 as the First Presbyterian Church, is now an art center.)

“OLD ABILENE TOWN”:

Of course we had to visit “Old Abilene”. Most of the buildings are replicas, although several of them, including all of the log structures and the school house are originals.  Built in the late 1800’s, not far from here, they were all moved and rebuilt on their present site.

One of the latest additions is a Western Museum.  Formerly the old Rock Island depot built in 1887; the depot was moved from its original site just across the tracks.  There was also a souvenir and gift shop, newspaper office, photo shop and restaurant.  It was a lovely autumn day, so browsing around was enjoyable

DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER LIBRARY:

We also visited this huge Complex.  Included in the Complex are the library, museum, family home, visitors’ center, and “Place of Meditation”.

The library houses historical documents relating to General Eisenhower’s careers as a soldier, educator, and 34th President of the United States. Across from the library is the museum, with exhibits related to the life of General Eisenhower and events of his times.   The home was occupied by the Eisenhower family from 1898 until 1946.  And, the Place of Meditation is the final resting place of Dwight David Eisenhower, his wife, Mamie Doud Eisenhower, and their first-born son, David.

FORT RILEY, KANSAS:

Located a few miles northeast of Junction City, Fort Riley was another stop on that trip through Kansas.  Both Rodger and I were interested in visiting this former fort, now an army training camp, as we each had a brother who completed their army training at Fort Riley.

As the frontier advanced westward in the early 1850’s, a fort to protect travelers was needed.  Camp Center, (now called Fort Riley) was established in 1853, and was first under the leadership of Lt. George Custer.  During the next three decades, soldiers used Fort Riley as a staging area to protect the expanding frontier.

In 1892 Fort Riley became the center for cavalry tactics and training.  The U.S. Calvary Museum at Fort Riley relates the history of the mounted soldier from the Revolutionary War to World War II.  Fort Riley has also served as a training center during all of the major wars of the 20th century. Today Fort Riley is home to the Army’s Ist Infantry Division, and the Ist Armored Division.

Driving around the grounds we enjoyed seeing the many historic buildings, (most which were built of post rock) including Lt George Custer’s home, one of the original buildings.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN:

Our new 5th wheel travel trailer was finally finished, so after “moving in” we hit the road.  And, as on that trip, now once again we approached southern Kansas, flatter farm land and the fields of milo.

On our first trip through Kansas I was not familiar with this strange crop!  The leaves are similar to corn, but the plant is shorter, like sorghum.  And, they have a large colorful “head” of seeds.  I soon learned, that milo comes in a variety of colors, from pale yellow to deep rust.  It is a feed grain and is also used in the production of ethanol!

BENSON, ARIZONA:

Leaving Kansas and our memories behind, there were no more stops, and we arrived at our home base in Benson on September 8th.  The summer monsoons poured a lot of rain over the area, and it was amazing to see the desert so green!   I will be busy “catching up” for some time, so my next post may not appear for awhile.   Let me hear from you!

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SUMMER TRAVELS – 2008: Nebraska

END of AUGUST in NEBRASKA

Our youngest daughter, (who sets up my blog) her husband, and youngest son, live on the west side of Omaha.  It was wonderful to see them again!   The two weeks we were here was spent between their lovely home and our campsite at Two Rivers State Recreational Area, about ten miles west of their home.

TWO RIVERS STATE RECREATION AREA:

This lovely state park along the Platte River encompasses some 644 acres of land, and about 320 acres of water in the form of 7 small sand pit lakes.  It is located just off of Hwy 92, one mile south and one mile west of Venice, NE.

The park includes 6 separate camping areas, with 209 individual hard surface pads, of which 113 have electric hookups.  Other features include, a swimming beach, picnic grounds, fishing, playgrounds, and hunting in season.  A unique feature is the “Caboose Park”.  Here, 10 colorful cabooses sit on their original tracks.  Remodeled and restored for lodging, these cabooses are available for rent from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

One of the most pleasant places we have ever stayed, the site we selected was in the Lakeside Campground, and was located directly on the shore of one of the sandpit lakes, with large trees offering shade.

We have stayed in this park on two other occasions, and I would recommend this very beautiful recreation area to anyone traveling in the area!

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SUMMER TRAVELS – 2008: Minnesota

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JULY & AUGUST in MINNESOTA

After leaving Mobridge, our plans were to attend an all school reunion and centennial celebration in Hill City, MN the town where we attended high school (click link). On July 4th a parade was held, and numerous vendors set up their wares in the City Park. I also, set up a table offering my books (The Maverick Series) and my hand crafted pine needle baskets for sale. (see an earlier blog entry regarding these baskets.)

July 5th was the school reunion, which included breakfast and a barbecue dinner, programs, visitation time, and other events. It was rather humorous, as most of us were looking, first, at name cards before faces, since we had all changed over the years!

From there we went to Grand Rapids, Minnesota, where we spent three weeks with family and friends, and fishing and relaxing at campgrounds north of there.

SANDY LAKE RECREATION AREA:
Leaving Grand Rapids, our next stop, was at this recreation area, located off of Highway 65 ten miles north of McGregor, MN. Operated by the US Corp of Engineers, it is situated along both sides of the dam on the Sandy River which forms the reservoir of Big Sandy Lake.

Big Sandy Lake (9,400 acres and 77 miles of shoreline) is located on the canoe route that linked Lake Superior and the Mississippi River. Archaeological evidence indicates that Native Americans had established villages along this route after the glaciers retreated, 10,000 years ago. The Northwest Fur Company established a major fur trading post near here in the late 1700’s. Sandy Lake Dam, completed in 1895, controls the runoff from a 421 square mile drainage area including eight lakes.

Camping sites were spacious and the setting was lovely. Our site was located along the Sandy River, and directly across the road from Big Sandy Lake. Near the park entrance, there is a large mound, which appears to be a burial mound. However, even though used for burials, it is actually an ancient natural glacial mound. And, atop this mound stands a large stone monument, and two old grave stones. The history of the graves and memorial is as follows:
The Monument: The Tragedy of 1850-1851 occurred when treaties between the US Government and the Ojibwe Tribe failed. Details of this tragedy are too great to go into on this post. However, the incident led to the death of about 400 Indians. 150 years after the Sandy Lake tragedy, the descendants of the involved Indian bands gathered to dedicate this memorial to those who suffered and died. This Mikwendaagoziwag Memorial means “We Remember Them”. My information comes in part from a brochure from the Corp of Engineer’s office at the park. More detailed information can be found from the following sites listed in the brochure:
E-mail: pio@glifwc.org Web site: www.glifwc.org or the address:
GLIFWC: P.O. Box 9 Odanah, WI 54861
The gravestones: A plaque at the base of the mound states, that in 1831 Frederick Ayer established a small missionary school at this site. This was attended by both white settlers and Indians until the building was moved to Fon du Lac in 1834. This mound actually contains several graves, but only these two stones remain standing today.

MINNEAPOLIS, MN:
The Seavey family annual family picnic was held on August 10, and we had planned our trip to include this event. Each year a different family hosts this event. This year it was at a cousin’s home in Lino Lakes, a NE suburb of Minneapolis. At least four generations of family members gathered, weather was great and all had a great time.

WINONA, MN:
Located on the Mississippi River in SE Minnesota, Winona was our home for many years. This is where, after our four children were in school, I attended college, earned a Master’s Degree in Art, and taught Art at Fountain City, Wisconsin for 10 years. Winona also was our last home before taking early retirement in 1979.

While in Winona, we stayed at Prairie Island Park and Campground, a large and lovely area located on the banks of the Mississippi River, with a view of the high bluffs on the Wisconsin side of the river.  Our stop here this summer was to visit our oldest grandson and his two darling boys (our great grandchildren), ages 7 and 3. Time with them was short and sweet, especially when we have no idea when we will see them again.

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SUMMER TRAVELS – 2008: South Dakota

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It has been awhile since my last post, as we left Benson the middle of May, and began traveling with our RV. This trip took us to the Midwest. We sometimes had difficulty locating Wi Fi sources, and also experienced some computer problems along the way. Now that the problems have been solved and our trip is winding down, I would like to share some of our stops with you.

JUNE in SOUTH DAKOTA

Mobridge, SD was our first destination. This area has long been a favorite stopping place for us, mostly because of the great walleye fishing on Lake Oahe, (pronounced Oahu) a reservoir of the Missouri River. Mobridge is located on Highway 12 about 100 miles north of Pierre, SD.

LAKE OAHE: Lake Oahe meanders from the dam at Pierre, SD to Bismarck, ND. This earth filled dam is one of the largest of its type in the world and has created the longest lake on the main stream of the Missouri River…with a shoreline of 2,250 miles, including 371,000 acres of tributary rivers and creeks.

Lake Oahe is best known as one of the nation’s most outstanding walleye fishing areas. It also offers a wide variety of other game fish such as smallmouth and white bass, catfish, and salmon. The area is also a popular hunting area because of its abundance of wild game, including deer, antelope, ring neck pheasant, wild turkey and grouse.

 

MOBRIDGE: On October 8, 1804 Lewis and Clark arrived at what is now known as Mobridge, on their Trail of Discovery. In 1906 the Chicago Milwaukee & St Paul Railroad Transcontinental Rail Line began construction of its Pacific Coast Extension. When completed in 1909 it put South Dakota on a transcontinental rail line, and a town began to develop.

Mobridge was named for the bridge over the MO’…the great Missouri River. It has also been called the Bridge City because of the three long bridges crossing the river…The US Highway 12 Bridge, the Railroad Bridge, and the Grand River Bridge. Driving into Mobridge from the east, one passes through an area of prairie agricultural and ranch land. Just west of the river, beautiful rolling green hills and bluffs meet your eye.

Mobridge now has a population of abut 3700. In recent years the city invested over $l million into a beautification project. Included in this project was the updating of streets and lighting, and business owners worked to refurbish store fronts into their original historic appearance. The fishing industry brings in people from many places, so several of the shops cater to tourists. Other places of interest and recent projects include:

Centennial Plaza: Located on Main Street, this area includes a large pergola displaying historic murals and photographs, a cascading fountain, flower beds and benches.
Scherr Howe Arena: On the walls in this historic building are ten authentic murals depicting Sioux Indian history and their ceremonies. These are the work of Oscar Howe, a native South Dakotan and a full blooded Sioux Indian. Mr. Howe died in 1983.
City Park: This lovely park has been improved to include a central fountain, two gazebos, lots of new trees, and flower beds, benches and a picnic area.
Riverfront Trail: This is a hiking biking trail that runs for three miles overlooking Lake Oahe. Interpretive plaques along the trail provide information regarding history of the Native Americans who once lived along the river (and still do), history of the town, wildlife in the area, etc. There are plans to continue the trail farther to the south to Indian Creek Recreation Area.
Klein Museum: Located on Hwy 12 at the west end of Mobridge, this museum was developed by early homesteader, Jake Klein. The museum focuses on pioneer and Native American life and artifacts, railroad memorabilia, etc. There is also an extensive display of Native American art and beadwork, and a gift shop.
Stores: Being the main town in the heart of a large rural farming area, Mobridge contains a wide variety of stores. One of our favorite stores was a farm and fleet store which, like a gigantic general store, carries almost everything one could think of! West Side Meat Market was another interesting stop. All cuts of beef and buffalo, many types of sausage, home cured bacon, cheeses of all kinds, a full deli and much more can be found here! We purchased some buffalo roasts, and found the meat to be much like beef, a little more dry, but with a delicious flavor.
Sitting Bull Stampede: The largest annual event in Mobridge is the Sitting Bull Stampede and Rodeo, held July 2, 3, & 4 at the Mobridge Rodeo Grounds. Besides the rodeo, this event features a parade, carnival and other events, ending with a fabulous fireworks display at dark. The fireworks are set off from the end of Indian Island west of town. We were staying at the Indian Island Campground one July, and were treated to “front seat” view of this terrific fireworks show from our campsite, with fireworks opening directly overhead!

 

INDIAN ISLAND: Indian Island is located across the Highway 12 Bridge just west of Mobridge. Originally developed and operated by the US Corp of Engineers, this campground overlooking Lake Oahe, located on the Standing Rock Sioux Indian Reservation, is now operated by The Sioux Tribe.

Spaces are large, in a beautiful park-like setting. Our site was located at the end of the park, across the road from an area of woods which offers a haven to deer, wild turkey, ring-necked pheasant, cottontail rabbits and many types of song birds. The wild turkeys roamed freely throughout the park and were a joy to watch! Rent for Senior Citizens is $8.00 a night, and there is no limit regarding length of stay.

This year we stayed for a month! We spent as much time, as weather would permit, fishing! Our boat is only twelve feet long, with an 8hp motor, so we did have to be cautious of the often windy conditions. We caught a lot of dandy walleye ranging from17 to 26 inches in length. The view of the rolling hills around us was lovely. Often while fishing we would come across a bull snake swimming across the lake! Otherwise, we spent our time relaxing, enjoying our campsite, the wildlife, and looking over the town.

One day while walking in the campground, I came across a group of Sioux Indians working on about twelve buffalo hides laced to individual wooden frameworks. Ladies were cooking in the background, and children were running and playing around. I spoke to several of the people working on the hides, took some photographs, and exchanged e-mail addresses with one of the men. Later, I had more questions about the hide process, so contacted the young man via e-mail. He replied, saying that the hides had been gotten from West Side Meat Market, the meat sold there, and that they were having a “traditional brain tanning class” (preserving one of the old traditional ways of tanning hides.) It was an interesting experience!

It had been a lovely and restful stop. Now it was time to head on to Minnesota.

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Life takes Sisu

May 24, 2008

It’s been a while since my last post. Unfortunately, my time has been taken up with pain management specialists in Tucson, where I have been undergoing various injections for “severe cervical stenosis”…My last treatment was Radiofrequency Ablation. In this procedure, a needle is injected in the affected joint. A michroelectrode is then placed inside the needle. Then, radiofrequency current is sent to the nerve of the joint. The heat from this current supposedly kills the nerve, thus reducing the pain level. This procedure is repeated in other joints that are affected. During this process, the patient is awake, as it is necessary to inform the doctor when pain is felt, so they know they are injecting the correct nerve. It was a very painful ordeal, lasting about an hour, and was performed in the outpatient department of Tucson Medical Center.

The actual effects of this procedure may not be evident for a few weeks. However, to give me more immediate relief, at the end of the radiofrequency procedure, my doctor injected a analgesic/steroid combination. Hopefully all of this will give me a relatively pain free summer.

I was reminded again, during this ordeal, of a Finnish term …..SISU. Since I am of full-blooded Finnish descent, I heard this word a lot as I was growing up. It means…a quality which Finnish parents hope to see in their children….meaning determination, perseverance, ambition, a strong will to succeed, along with a bit of stubbornness! As a child I often heard my Dad say to Mother…”Maybe Elaine has a little bit too much sisu”! (Click on the picture to read about Finnish fortitude and resilience on Wikipedia.) At the time, I wondered what kind of a disease I might have…until I grew older and learned the meaning of this word!

I strongly felt that my SISU saw me through my year long battle with non-Hodgkins Lymphoma in 1999. It helped me through the many long hours of organizing and writing the Maverick Series….and, I could make a long list of other examples. Anyway, it’s not a bad quality to possess!

We will be leaving, perhaps tomorrow, with our 5th wheel trailer, heading east….Our first destination will be Mobridge, South Dakota. We have spent quite a bit of time here over the years, as we enjoy fishing Lake Oahu, a reservoir on the Missouri River, and staying in a lovely campground on the shores of the reservoir.

Then we will move on to Minnesota, where we have family and friends….Our roots are here. So, continue to check my posts to read about our summer travels.

Rodger & Elaine

Petroglyphs – Gabriola Island, British Columbia, Canada

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March 30, 2008

In my last post, I told about some of the wonderful petroglyph sites we have come across in Southwestern Arizona.  The Pacific Northwest, also, has its share of ancient Indian villages, burial sites and rock art.  Now, I would like to share a unique petroglyph site we discovered on an island in Canada.

My fifth and last book in the “Maverick Series”, The Strait Years, centers around our activities during the twenty years we lived in the town of Port Angeles, on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.  Situated between the Olympic Mountains and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, it is a beautiful area.  Living on the waterfront, much time was spent cruising among the islands in US and Canadian waters on our 30-foot cabin cruiser named The Maverick.

When leaving Port Angeles on the Maverick, our first challenge was the twenty-mile crossing of the Strait of Juan de fuca.   Frequently trips were delayed due to fog or stormy conditions on the Strait!  Once across the Strait and in  sheltered waters,  we had the choice of cruising among Washington’s San Juan Islands, or clearing customs and heading north into Canadian waters and the many  islands off the Eastern shore of Vancouver Island, British Columbia.  When heading into Canadian waters, one of our favorite  overnight stops was at a  government wharf in Degnan Bay, on Gabriola Island.

From The Strait Years…..  “In our boating guide there was a reference to a ‘petroglyph of a killer whale on the shores of Degnan Bay, which can be seen at low tide.’    In the morning the tide was out, so we took the dinghy and rowed along the shoreline searching for the petroglyph.  It didn’t take long to find.  The whale figure was about four feet long, deeply etched into a large flat rock on shore.  I climbed out on the slippery rocks, and proceeded to create a rubbing, using some white muslin and a black crayon I had brought along.”

We had planned to leave in the morning, but coming out of the channel into the big waters of Georgia Strait (another 20-mile stretch of big water) we could see that it was too rough to cross, so we went around the shoreline to Silva Bay Marina.  After getting moored, we went for a walk along a road behind  the marina.  Coming to a gift shop we stopped.  I mentioned to the clerk about the whale petroglyph, and she told us that Gabriola Island had  numerous petroglyph sites, and that one site, (called the “Weldwood Site”)  was in walking distance from the marina!  She referred to “behind a church and down an old logging road”. (Actually, several miles!!)

Excited with this new found information, the following morning we headed out.  We passed a church, but didn’t see a logging road…and walked on and on.  Finally,  not seeing a thing that resembled a petroglyph site, we retraced our steps.  Coming to the church again,  Rodger…with his bad knees…said he had to rest.  Then the part about “behind a church” came back to me, so I wandered around and found a well worn path leading alongside a newly-built fence…on the other side of which there was an old logging road!  My excitement mounted and I hurried on!  The trail led to a clearing in the woods…a sign posted on a tree cautioned about “not disturbing antiquities etc.” and I knew I had found the Weldwood Site!.  I hurried back to get Rodger, so that we could explore this fascinating area together…a meadow covered with flat rocks amidst the long grasses, and every rock covered with wonderful petroglyphs!

The petroglyphs were awesome!  Included were large etchings of fish, serpents, birds, design-like creatures, and stickmen figures.  One in particular intrigued me.  It was of a stick-figure which has been named “Dancing Man”, and depicts a stick-figure with knees bent outward,  and arms flexed at the elbow as if he were dancing.

Thankfully, we had the camera along, but I didn’t take nearly enough photographs, and was very sorry that I hadn’t thought to bring my muslin and crayons along to make a few rubbings of these fantastic figures. No one knows how old these rock carvings are, but  some archaeologists believe they may date back as far as 2,000 to 3,000 B.C.  Other sources believe they are only about 1,000 years old.

Returning to the Marina, we stopped at the gift shop to tell the clerk we had found the site.  She showed me a pewter key chain (that could also be put on a chain and worn as a necklace) of “Dancing Man!”  Which of course, I purchased!

It had been a wonderful experience, and I thought about how interesting it would have been to seek out some of the other petroglyph sites on lovely Gabriola Island!                                                    (Click on any of the pictures above to enlarge.)

I would enjoy some feedback on my blog, website, and/or my books.
Please contact me  at:   elaineseavey@escapees.com
Autographed books may also  be ordered via e-mail…free shipping.

PETROGLYPHS & INDIAN CAMPS IN THE SOUTHWEST

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March 1, 2008

Since my last post told about Apache Indian camps in the Dragoon Mountains near Benson, AZ, I thought it might be an appropriate time to share with you some other ancient Indian sites and rock art we have discovered during our ramblings in the southwest. These sites are described in greater detail in my third book, SOUTHWEST ADVENTURES.

PICTURE ROCK:
The firsrt petroglyphs we came across are located south of Quartzsite,AZ along Tyson Wash, which runs north and south through this area. “We had b een walking across the desert, when we arrived at a large dry wash and knew it must be Tyson Wash.  Following the wash for a ways, we came to a large outcropping of rocks on the east side of the wash.  It was filled with petroglyphs, and we knew this must be Picture Rock.
Directly across the wash there is a rocky hill.  On top of the hill we discovered deep mortars, (grinding holes).  There were a lot of mesquite trees in the area, so undoubtedly early Indians came here to camp while they gathered mesquite beans and ground them into flour.  From the depth of the mortars, the area evidently had been used for a long time.  Many natural depressions (or tanks)  in the nearby rocks would hold water for drinking purposes, making it an ideal camping spot.”

DRIPPING SPRING:
We learned about this site, east of Quartzsite,from some friends, who took us here for the first time.  We drove across the desert toward the mountains. The road was narrow and rocky.  Finally, we had to park the truck and walk the rest of the way in.
“This hike took us through a wash with high walls, forming a canyon. It was very pretty!  After about a mile a trail led up out of the canyon to a large open area at the base of the mountains.  Huge brown boulders were scattered all over this valley, and almost every rock was covered with petroglyphs! (rock etchings)  From the large number of petroglyphs, this must have been an active Indian Camp for quite a long time.  Then, we followed a path leading toward the base of the mountains.  Here, under an overhanging ledge of rock, was Dripping Spring.  There was a pool of water  beneath the ledge into which water was dripping from the rocks above.”  Several large trees shaded the spot, and we sat on some large rocks to rest and cool off before our trek back to the truck.

SEARS POINT PETROGLYPHS:
We learned about this site from an Archaeologist at the Bureau of Land Management office in Yuma, AZ. “We drove east out of Yuma on I-8 for about 70 miles, then turned north on the Spot Road exit.”A gravel road turned north, and we followed it for another seven miles, and arrived at the remnants of an old log cabin.  “A rutted track turned west from the cabin and came out by some large dark rock outcroppings.  This was the petroglyph site…”We visited with a man who was camping here, and learned that he had been teaching a group of students studying and cataloging the petobglyphs, and that he was writing a book about these and other petroglyph sites.”..Wandering over to the rocks..”The large flat lower areas all contained some petroglyphs, but the higher rock surfaces were literally covered with wonderful etchings.”  It had been a wonderful discovery!

PAINTED ROCK STATE PARK:
From SOUTHWEST ADVENTURES:  Just west of Gila Bend, a well marked road turns north.  “After 12 miles you will arrive at the park.  The first primitive camping area is only a few miles off the highway and is called the Petroglyph Unit.  The focal point is a large mound of rocks, the surfaces of which are covered with ancient petroglyphs!” .. This site reminded me of Sears Point, which is about 40 miles west of here, both sites being located in the Gila River Valley.  Walking over to the petroglyph site, “Virtually every stone was covered with etchings. These petroglyphs were similar to others we had seen in the southwest.  Man is portrayed in crude form.  There were also snakes and lizards, animal forms, jagged and spiral and designs, to mention a few. On the ground near this hill of rocks were large flatter rocks with mortars on them.”

OTHER SOUTHWEST PETROGLYPHS:

Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, NV

Wolf Cabin, Arches Nat. Park, Utah

In my next post I will display photos and tell of some very interesting and unusual petroglyphs we found in the Pacific Northwest.

Meanwhile, Thank you to those who have responded to my web site and blog.  I hope more of you will contact me by e-mail!

web site:  www.elaineseavey.com

Cochise Strongholds & Council Rocks

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Benson, AZ

EAST AND WEST COCHISE STRONGHOLDS:

As I write, my view from our RV windows here in Benson is to the east.  On the horizon, the Dragoon Mountains form a natural barrier, about five miles wide, and 30 miles long, from north to south across the desert.  Midway, rocky canyons on both east and west sides of the mountain range come together at a pass through the Dragoons.  This natural fortress was, for many years the home base, or stronghold, of the Chiricahua Apache chief Cochise (1815-1874) and his followers. An ideal place, since a  year round stream, springs, natural foods and game provided all their needs.  Sentinels posted on higher peaks could spot intruders from many miles away.  And, the canyon’s east and west openings offered escape routes on either end.

I wrote about our visits to both the east and west ends of the stronghold in my third book, SOUTHWEST ADVENTURES.  To reach the East Stronghold:  “We drove east of Benson on I-10, turning south at exit 331 onto Highway #191.After about 17 miles, a gravel road turns west. Another 10 miles took us to the entrance of the stronghold.  The road ends at a lovely campground at the base of the mountains. This is where the main base of the Apache stronghold was located.  A hiking trail starts here and leads over the pass and down to the west side of the stronghold.”

On our first visit to the West  Stronghold, we rode our mountain bikes in on a dirt track from St. David (7 miles south of Benson.)  Unfortunately, this road now stops at a locked gate leading to an exclusive neighborhood of country estates, closing it to the public.

Our oldest son, drove out from Texas to visit us in January, 2007.  Eager to share some of the historic sites in Cochise County, we decided to take him to West Cochise Stronghold.  Today, the only public access involves driving south of Benson on Highway #80.  About a mile north of Tombstone, we turned east on Middle March Road…gravel and “washboard”.  This road continues over Middle March Pass and comes out at the community of Pearce in Sulpher Spring Valley.  However, after about 10 miles, we turned north on another dirt road (FR687) leading into the Coronado National Forest, and the south end of the Dragoon Mountains.

From my book: “The scenery was breathtaking.  Tall yellow grasslands at the foot of the mountains were dotted here and there with oak and mesquite trees.  The mountains were made up of huge bare granite monoliths.  Camping is permitted in the National Forest, and primitive campsites were scattered along the sides of the roads.  The road was narrow and rutted, winding up and down, crossing two streams.  After about 10 miles we arrived at the entrance to Stronghold Canyon.“  Turning east, the canyon here is narrow, following a shallow stream, with oak, juniper and sycamore trees lining its shores.  This peaceful setting is surrounded by awesome pinnacles of granite rocks in all shapes and sizes.  On this day, we drove in for about two miles, until the road narrowed to a mere track.  Then we stopped to eat our picnic lunch and  paused to enjoy the incredibly lovely surrounding scenery.

COUNCIL ROCKS:

I had vaguely heard about “Council Rocks”,  and knew the site was in this general area, but it was after completing SOUTHWEST ADVENTURES before I learned its exact location. Now, with Brad along, seemed the perfect time to see if we could locate it.

It was at Council Rocks where, in 1872, Cochise signed the Broken Arrow Peace Treaty, agreeing to cease waring attacks.  In return, the government granted to the Apaches a vast reservation, including the southeast corner of Arizona, including the Dragoon and Chiricahua Mountains near the Mexican border.  However, in 1876, two years after Cochise died, the government broke its promise and moved the Chiricahua Apaches 100 miles north to the San Carlos Reservation on the Gila River.

After visiting West Cochise Stronghold, we turned back to the south.  Locating FR #687K we turned east, where the road ended at a parking area. A broken down gate and old sign led to a path across the grasslands, ending up at a jumble of huge boulders.  Here, a short but very steep trail leads up to an area of house sized boulders and giant tipped rocks forming shallow caves. Obviously it was the site of a former Apache summer camp, being cooler than in the narrow canyon.   Blackened areas were evidence of former fire pits, and we found large, deep mortars on the surrounding flat rocks.  Then our son shouted out “I’ve found something really neat!”  And, indeed it was!  Under an overhanging ledge of rock he had discovered an entire rock wall of ancient,  red/ocre paintings!….(pictographs)  A sign at the site stated that archaeologists believe the original pictographs were created by Mogollon Indians who lived in the area as long as 1,000 years ago…but may have been added to by the more recent Apache tribes.

Although we have come across many ancient Indian camps during our explorations, this one seemed  special.  Petroglyphs (etchings on rock) are more common.  Pictographs are rare and usually faded beyond recognition. While these were faded, being beneath the rock overhang, they had been preserved amazingly well.

It had been a cool sunny Arizona winter day.  We considered ourselves most fortunate to have shared the beauty of West Cochise Stronghold with our son, and finding Council Rocks was definitely an added adventure!

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Write-up in Home Town Paper

My home town newspaper in Grand Rapids, Minnesota recently published an entire page article about our retired lifestyle and the books in my five-book “Maverick Series”.  This article, written by Britta Arendt, appeared in the Sunday, December 9th edition of the Grand Rapids  Herald-Review in their Leisure Living section.   I think they did a nice job, and would like to share this with you.

<<click picture to read article>>